Audi A4 Driver Side Firewall Black Plastic Tube Free Updated
Audi A4 Driver Side Firewall Black Plastic Tube Free Updated
12-17-201707:52 PM #i
Veteran Member 3 Rings 
Analog boost through firewall
Hooked upwards analog boost to my P3 guess. Haven't driven yet but curious to see tomorrow how the readings differ from what the OBD port spits out, which I'k pretty sure is not correct since I'1000 stage two. Most I could ever get digitally was 9.iii PSI. Promise that'south not correct.
Routing the tube was a fleck of a challenge and there's zip really out there on how to become it done.
Remove big plastic cover that spans engine bay in a higher place firewall by pulling the soft hood seal off, then slide it out.
Next remove the windshield wiper fluid top reservoir by removing the two Torx screws that hold information technology down (obvious). This upper reservoir had a tube that volition slide out from the fender as pictured, and if at that place's any fluid in it, information technology will dump out and the ECU is directly below it, so be fast or be empty considering a wet ECU is probably non good.
At present the ECU is exposed. Unclip the ECU from it's tray and motility bated. I used some wire to tie information technology off then it would stay out of the manner. Unplugging it felt similar a bad idea.
At present exposed is the elevation cover of yet some other fuse box. Remove the 5 Torx screws and pull the acme cover off. The but reason for this is that it has the clips for the ECU fastened to information technology and moving it out of the way makes it possible to reach the rubber passthrough grommet where the boost tube will go through the firewall. Be careful of the exposed connection in there, it may be hot- I didn't cheque.
In this pic you can barely see the upper border of the circular grommet for the passthrough.
Now within the cabin: Remove driver side fuse box cover.
Remove the big knee joint console beneath the steering column past removing the 3 bolts securing it: two are on the lesser of panel, 1 is inside the fuse box which you merely uncovered. After that it's only carefully wiggle it loose. There are tabs on either side of the steering column holding the upper edges in.
Disconnect the headlight control harness, the OBD port and the small footwell low-cal and put the knee panel bated.
At present you tin have a practiced unobstructed look at the area behind the nuance. It takes sticking your head in there while laying on your dorsum to find this grommet, only information technology isn't that difficult to spot. There is a fairly large parcel going through there.
Here is a movie of it with a white wire passing thru it that I had already fished through.
Once you locate it, what I did was go back outside to the engine bay and clip off the rubber nub on the grommet. This nub is at that place for exactly this purpose: to allow a wire(s) to laissez passer through the firewall. Conscientious of that wire bundle right side by side to it. Once it'southward cut, you at present have a hole through the grommet. I opened upwards this hole a bit more than with a knife because I couldn't pull the tubing through, so I recommend doing that. I used 1 usher out of some Romex I had laying around as a wire fish and pushed information technology through from the outside nub through to the inside. Glaze hanger would work as well. Once there, just tape the tubing to your wire and gently pull it through.
End result of that pace:
The rest is cake. Road the tube abroad from hot items. I drilled through the plastic piece that holds the large plastic cover removed in the starting time step and routed the business firm around to the boost tap.
Hook upwards to the gauge, calibrate, put everything dorsum and your in business organization.
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Last edited by SlickMachine; 12-18-2017 at 04:33 PM.
12-17-201709:41 PM #two
Veteran Member Iv Rings 
Thanks for this!!!. Someone else posted this, but it wasn't equally clear as this write up. I tin now finally clean upwardly all my ghetto donkey wiring.
12-17-201710:53 PM #three
Veteran Member 3 Rings 
I was looking for a identify to run wires into the engine bay. I got equally far as the fuses and went looking for someplace easier. I ended upward going through the HVAC inlet. Ran the wires under the carpet to the drivers side.
2012 A7 3.0T Prestige, Ibis white/Nougat/Ash, 20" Sport, ACC, LED, HUD, Ferrada FR2 wheels, AWE Touring exhaust, Adam's Drag II rotors, BlackVue dash cams
As I've grown older, I've learned that pleasing everyone is impossible,
simply pissing everyone off is a piece of cake
12-eighteen-201706:22 AM #v
Veteran Member Four Rings 
Always tought there was a much easier route...through the wheel case. On my a4 there was a plugged hole that enters the fusebox on the passengers side. Most likely the aforementioned on drivers side.
12-18-201704:14 PM #vi
Veteran Fellow member 3 Rings
Drove to work and back and hither'due south my findings:
Huge huge difference in boost reading. I got a maximum of xiii.8 this morning with the analog sensor. With the digital setup, max was 9.3, and then yes, that can't exist accurate. I played effectually with OBD links in the past and I think that the digital boost portion of this gauge is reading the 'commanded boost' variable or something like. Also worth noting, the behavior of the reading is different with analog and looks/feels much more connected to the throttle/engine speed. It too comes out of vacuum and into boost much before in the power curve, more than where you would expect that to happen on a traditional boost gauge. The digital setup would stay in vacuum until well into higher engine speeds every under load.
I think that the digital boost reading from the OBD is almost useless if yous are stock. If you are tuned, information technology'southward a cruel joke.
Side effect I didn't programme on: the tubing passes boosted blower noise from the tap into the motel. I'chiliad stage ii with RS7 intake and 034 intake tube so I already had some extra racket, but this turned it upward ever so slightly and adds some noise to your left ear since that's where the tubing terminates into the sensor.
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Final edited by SlickMachine; 12-xviii-2017 at 04:27 PM.
12-18-201704:19 PM #7
Veteran Member Three Rings
Originally Posted past Dasquade 
Always tought there was a much easier route...through the wheel case. On my a4 in that location was a plugged hole that enters the fusebox on the passengers side. Virtually likely the same on drivers side.
What practice you hateful by 'wheel case'?
I spent a lot of fourth dimension under the dash looking for a useable passthrough and I only didn't come across any other way curt of drilling a new hole, which is suicide I think. There was a bundle that passed through the left side role of the footwell but non merely was it unreachable, there was no way to fish anything outboard and so forward not having access. If I had to do this again or if i had a good write upwardly, I could practice the whole matter in under an hour no trouble.
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12-18-201704:46 PM #viii
Veteran Fellow member Iv Rings
Wish i could find moving picture of information technology (i must have information technology somewhere), just when i took of the 'inner mud guard' on my A4 in the acme left corner behind the frame (all bit hard as well see etc) but there was a hole that is covered with a prophylactic seal chapeau (like yous take in the back aswell for example). If you run an electrical wire as guider that will end up in the somewhere behind the glovebox nearly the fuse box. Not certain, merely i suppose that would exist the same on the drivers side....and the same for current models or 6 serie.
I used it for calculation front end parking sensors in the past afaik. I will try to find pictures in instance....too tardily for you lot (had suggested information technology earlier in other topic).
*edit: plant simular topic of the front parking sensors DIY with pictures :)
http://world wide web.audizine.com/forum/showth...t-Instructions
Last edited past Dasquade; 12-18-2017 at 04:56 PM.
S6 C7 avant 'xiii estoril | ceramics | DS1 OTS stage 2 | Lightvan | Milltek not-res X pipe | TS1 | 034 trans-diff mount | CETE ASC-EVC | FL tails & dynamic signals | Thermo ZO catless DP | SRM a2a | BC Forged 20" HCA162S | custom spoiler sideskirts | Maxton front lip & diffuser | Armor heatshield mani-turbo-dp | B&O led tweets (repli) | Forge boost hoses | FIS mmi gauges | R8GT steeringwheel | alcantara interior | SRM inlets | R8 exclusive seats | JXD driveshaft | Tial WG
12-19-201705:29 AM #nine
Established Member Two Rings
non certain virtually the obdII not beingness right, I am seeing 22 psi on my stage 2 RS7 at the rail. talking with the APR rep, they said betwixt xx-24 psi is where a stage II RS7 should be at.
1/4 mile run
2019 daytona grey pearl TT RS
12-nineteen-201705:51 AM #10
Veteran Member 3 Rings
Originally Posted by Mr. Anderson
not sure about the obdII non being right, I am seeing 22 psi on my phase 2 RS7 at the rails. talking with the APR rep, they said between 20-24 psi is where a phase 2 RS7 should be at.
1/4 mile run
I would say the RS is completely different beingness turbo vs supercharged. Maybe yours reads correct only I'm certain it doesn't on the A7. Two totally unlike cars. As well, I thought I remember reading that the P3 gauge requires special software to piece of work on RS7...
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12-19-201707:12 AM #eleven
Established Member Two Rings
gotcha, didn't know y'all were talking nigh a A7, deplorable. As for special software, I didn't need to do anything special other than select that every bit the pick when I ordered the gauge. It was a uncomplicated installation of following the instructions and plugging in the P3 plug into the ODBII port.
Originally Posted by SlickMachine
I would say the RS is completely different being turbo vs supercharged. Perhaps yours reads correct simply I'k certain it doesn't on the A7. Ii totally different cars. As well, I thought I think reading that the P3 estimate requires special software to work on RS7...
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12-19-201709:29 AM #12
Established Member Two Rings 
That�south really odd. I have a stage 2 A7 and I see low to mid 20s on my PS3 from the OBD port. I saw 11-13 PSI stock, 16-18 stage one and now 21-24 stage 2. Pinnacle heave besides seemed to match what I was seeing when logging with vagcom. Have you checked your settings or mayhap there is a newer firmware version? How long have you had it?
2012 A7 Prestige - 20" Sport Parcel - April Stage ii - April CPS - InJen Intake - P3 Heave Estimate - 034 Rear Sway Bar and Cease Links - AWE Touring Exhaust - S7 Flat Bottom Wheel
12-19-201709:34 AM #13
Veteran Member Three Rings
Originally Posted past stingvb
That�s really odd. I have a phase 2 A7 and I run across low to mid 20s on my PS3 from the OBD port. I saw xi-thirteen PSI stock, xvi-18 phase 1 and now 21-24 stage two. Peak boost also seemed to match what I was seeing when logging with vagcom. Have you checked your settings or maybe there is a newer firmware version? How long take you had it?
I but bought it from P3 two weeks agone. It has the track pack congenital in. Settings are inches hg for vacuum, boost in PSI, and 'Motorcar 3' in settings as per their instructions.
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12-xix-201709:40 AM #fourteen
Established Member Two Rings
Originally Posted by SlickMachine
I merely bought it from P3 2 weeks agone. It has the track pack built in. Settings are inches hg for vacuum, boost in PSI, and 'Car iii' in settings as per their instructions.
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Hmm, perhaps it it the track pack. I bought the updated version to get AFR and IAT, but accept non even so installed it. Something to go on an eye on when I do.
Thanks
2012 A7 Prestige - 20" Sport Package - APR Stage two - APR CPS - InJen Intake - P3 Boost Gauge - 034 Rear Sway Bar and Finish Links - AWE Touring Exhaust - S7 Flat Lesser Bicycle
12-xix-201709:45 AM #fifteen
Veteran Fellow member Three Rings
Originally Posted by stingvb
Hmm, maybe information technology it the track pack. I bought the updated version to get AFR and IAT, but take non yet installed information technology. Something to continue an eye on when I exercise.
Thanks
Also, I really retrieve your gauge is reading waaay over what y'all're really getting in boost. Here is a screen shot from USP Motorsports with the APR Stage ii information. Peak heave phase 2: 14psi. This all tracks with what I come across S4'southward reporting across the net. twenty+ on this blower, with our rev limit, is not reasonable. Just FYI 9psi equals about 13 inches hg... Perhaps your boost reading is ready to inches hg and not PSI..?
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12-19-201701:25 PM #16
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
I max out at 22psi, confirmed with an analog boost gauge and through VCDS.
12-19-201701:37 PM #17
Veteran Member Three Rings
Originally Posted past ntsantos
I max out at 22psi, confirmed with an analog boost approximate and through VCDS.
Don't have this the wrong way because I'1000 just trying to get to the lesser of this:. Do you lot guys honestly believe that y'all are achieving Stage 2 RS7 heave levels (twenty+ PSI) out of our relatively low displacement Roots-type blower?
Tin you double bank check your heave reading units setting and make sure you lot are looking at PSI?
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12-nineteen-201701:39 PM #18
Veteran Fellow member Four Rings
Super duper confirmed. All the fastest 3.0T guys are hitting 2400+ hPa. You lot know how to catechumen to psi right?
12-19-201701:41 PM #19
Stage two Banner Advertiser 4 Rings 
Your tiptop in CO is playing a huge part in your boost readings.
12-19-201701:49 PM #xx
Veteran Member 3 Rings
Originally Posted past Chris@EPL
Your elevation in CO is playing a huge office in your boost readings.
Yeah merely minus six-7 PSI... That's a bit much
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12-nineteen-201701:55 PM #21
Stage 2 Banner Advertiser 4 Rings
Yeah it tin can be that much. Everyone posting xviii-22PSI is besides not at redline like that ad says to a higher place. Heave at redline is unlike than what the boost fasten.
12-19-201702:52 PM #22
Veteran Fellow member Three Rings
Originally Posted by Chris@EPL
Yep it can exist that much. Everyone posting 18-22PSI is besides not at redline like that advertising says in a higher place. Boost at redline is different than what the boost fasten.
Altitude sucks for sure. Possibly I should throw more money at it.. 
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12-19-201704:00 PM #23
Veteran Member Three Rings 
Originally Posted past Mr. Anderson
non sure about the obdII not being right, I am seeing 22 psi on my stage II RS7 at the track. talking with the APR rep, they said between 20-24 psi is where a stage Ii RS7 should be at.
1/4 mile run
My April Stage ii RS7 is making close to 30 lbs of boost on the 104 file.
2014 RS7 Daytona Gray Pearl April Stage 2
10.319 @ 131.82 on GT260+
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12-19-201704:18 PM #24
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted past SlickMachine
Altitude sucks for sure. Perchance I should throw more coin at information technology..
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Go a custom 500mm creepo pulley
12-19-201704:19 PM #25
Veteran Member Iii Rings
Originally Posted by ntsantos
Get a custom 500mm crank pulley
Get a Tesla and be washed with it.
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12-19-201704:22 PM #26
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by SlickMachine
That'due south always tempting...
12-xix-201704:23 PM #27
Veteran Member Three Rings
Originally Posted by ntsantos
That's ever tempting...
Seriously man it sucks living in Denver being an enthusiast... Fuckin 6000' loftier and 91 octane. Stupid.
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12-19-201705:31 PM #28
Veteran Member Four Rings
Originally Posted by SlickMachine
Seriously human it sucks living in Denver being an enthusiast... Fuckin 6000' high and 91 octane. Stupid.
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Simply for an FYI since I alive in CO likewise (FOCO). My stage II B8.5 S4 could only hit max 13 psi. Then I went dual caster (with 189 fluidampr) and could hitting 17 psi max. This was calculated using Vag-Com readings and ambience air pressure.
-------
2022 S6 - stock for now
2014 S6 - Stage three - Gone
2013 S4 - Dual Pulley e85 - Gone
12-19-201705:34 PM #29
Veteran Member Three Rings
Originally Posted by Hofahome
Just for an FYI since I live in CO too (FOCO). My stage II B8.5 S4 could only hit max xiii psi. Then I went dual pulley (with 189 fluidampr) and could hit 17 psi max. This was calculated using Vag-Com readings and ambient air pressure.
13psi on bulldoze pulley or...? Cooling?
Wondering if I tin get away with dual pulley and no cooling up hither at altitude.
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12-19-201707:19 PM #30
Veteran Member Iv Rings
Originally Posted by SlickMachine
13psi on drive caster or...? Cooling?
Wondering if I tin get away with dual caster and no cooling up here at altitude.
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13 psi was with smaller southward/c pulley (which is considered stg II in S4 three.0t world). You will demand cooling for dual pulley, unless you want to pull timing and be equally fast as a stock S4. I will say that going dual pulley made the biggest difference on my motorcar and I was fifty-fifty running e85 before that. If you are tuned I recommend mixing 3 gal of e85 with our shit 91.
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2022 S6 - stock for now
2014 S6 - Stage 3 - Gone
2013 S4 - Dual Pulley e85 - Gone
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Audi A4 Driver Side Firewall Black Plastic Tube Free Updated
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